I was incredibly excited to visit Argentina for the first time – from both a work and personal perspective. For weeks before, my dreams were laced with Dulce de Leche and Madonna’s voice serenading me with the songs from Evita. And then the day was finally here… I fell asleep on a flight leaving Dallas in Spring and woke up in a beautiful Buenos Aires autumn.
With work starting on Monday morning, I arrived early on Saturday to explore what little of Buenos Aires life I could see in two days. And I had wonderful company, with MM flying down from NYC to join me for my short adventure.
We started in Palermo where our room at the adorable boutique Miravida Soho Hotel and Wine Bar wasn’t quite ready. Despite our overnight flight griminess, we set off to wander the leafy streets and scrounge up coffee and breakfast. We stopped off at a café on Ave Santa Fe and the Botanical Gardens and firsthand immediately experienced two key trends of food and dining in Argentina. First, Argentinia is filled with “light” options on menus and on grocery store shelves. Looking good is quite important! Although I must say that our toast, yogurt, cream cheese and coffee was maybe more “light” in title than in reality! Second, we learned quickly that service in restaurants tends to be more of a game of jumping up and down and waving someone down than anywhere else I have ever been in the world. It was literally amazing how well the servers in Argentina can ignore tables. It was a practice in patience!

After spiffying up back at the hotel, we went off to explore San Telmo (the heart of Tango), and then over to the amazing cemetery in Recoleta. We stopped for a quick botana (snack!) at the historic Bar El Federal in San Telmo with its huge historic bar and long history (since 1864). My tostada of grilled cheese was a fun snack but I was distracted watching our tour guide have a version of hot chocolate called a submarino, where you actually get a chocolate bar to melt into hot milk. My mouth was watering as he sipped his chocolate and nibbled on the ever-present Argentinean medialunas (mini croissants).

After Recoleta, it was absolutely necessary to have gelato. This was one of the items that had been floating in my Dulce de Leche dreams. Everyone who returns from Argentina talks about the gelato and I have to tell you, it did not disappoint! We stopped at Un Alta Volta where I tried the Dulce de Leche con Brownies. It was fantastic – sweet, creamy, and filled with brownie chunks! I finished it quickly and couldn’t wait for the next day in order to be able to reasonably buy gelato again.
After a glass of wine in our hotel wine bar, dinner on Saturday was at Casa Cruz in Palermo, a beautiful and trendy restaurant in Palermo Soho. We started with cocktails in the lounge and then moved back into the dining room where we were treated to arguably the best meal we had in Argentina. The food was fresh and on season and I loved that they had vegetarian options, including a wonderful goat cheese tart with fresh tomato to start. MM enjoyed her sea bass and for dessert, we shared an uber rich chocolate dessert with dulce de leche and the plate of mini cookies and treats that accompanied the check. A wonderful first night in Argentina.
Sunday found us back out on the streets of Buenos Aires wondering around the federal buildings, the gorgeous cathedral (from the inside!) and the infamous pink house. As we ventured up the Ave de Mayo, we stopped for coffee and a snack at the historic Café Tortoni (1858). Filled with tourists, yes, but a nice break for our feet and just one of those places that a good tourist is not allowed to skip!
Official touring complete, we walked back to San Telmo to find lunch and to explore the amazing Sunday antiques market. If only I could bring home one of those chandeliers! I was drooling as we passed booth after booth filled with just what I have been looking for for my condo a hemisphere away from home. We stopped for an Italian lunch at Amici Miel, where we drank wine and I enjoyed fresh spinach and ricotta tortelli in a butter and parmesan sauce. It was a beautiful day to have a relaxed, lingering meal literally over the crowds of the Plaza Dorrego. And, yes, gelato for dessert at Freddo, which was good but nowhere near as rich and delicious as Volta.

Later in the evening, we stood waiting outside (as is the tradition) at La Cabrera in Palermo. It was time for MM to have her steak. And boy did she get a steak the size of her head! For me, simple grilled veggie skewers but the side dishes made up for it all! Hot dishes, cold dishes, so so many dishes to taste and try. From butternut squash, to potato salads, to cole slaw, to marinated veggies, to eggs, to etc etc. Good and just so much to taste and sample. It was an awesome experience! From La Cabrera, we were off to the sensual tango show at the Philippe Starck designed Faena Hotel + Universe in Puerto Madero, the modern harbor neighborhood of the city. A great way to end an amazing weekend in Buenos Aires.

While I worked the rest of the week, it doesn’t mean I didn’t also get to eat! Many, many empanadas from Delicity for lunches filled my belly with more carbs than I had eaten in a year. One night we ventured for Italian at Bice in Puerto Madero (near the Hilton where I stayed the rest of the week and was very, well, Hilton). I had no idea that Bice was a chain but we enjoyed it nonetheless, sitting on the patio, drinking Torrentes (my new favorite summer wine! Very similar to a New Zealan Sauvignon Blanc), eating caprese and eggplant rigatoni. A work dinner took me to Cabana las Lilas where I wasn’t impressed with the service or my salad but did enjoy the grilled provolone and the panqueque filled with dulce de leche for dessert. On our final night in Buenos Aires, I anticipated a great dinner at 647 Dinner Club based on reviews at Chowhound. The cavernous space was practically empty and the food wasn’t memorable in a good way - my corn flavored risotto was an odd combination that I just couldn’t wrap my arms around. Sad.
Good thing I made up for that last meal by buying an obscene amount of alfajores (dulce de leche filled cookies) and dulce de leche itself in duty free!